Tag Archives: woodwork

school bus RV, Skoolie, Uncategorized

Problems with getting things done on the bus …

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Every job has its problems.  Some of those on the bus are relatively simple to deal with, like the curved roofline.  To combat that, I made up a template using one of the interior endcaps and some sturdy MDF.  Voila, I can now cut a curve for wall paneling or shelf ends that will fit any section of the interior roof to a shape that will fit pretty well.

But some things are bigger problems.  Like in working on the electrical system, I’m up to the point in blogging where I *should* be installing the DC Circuit Breaker box.  It’s a wonderful thing from Blue Sea marine rated so it’s good with moisture, separate wiring for backlighting, and available in 12 or 24 volts, and you can have all the breakers wired to one power source, or source them separately (which is what I’ll do).  

But I can’t put that in the system yet.

Why, you ask?  Because it has a cascade of other jobs that need to be done before I can get there, each job hinging on the one before it.  The circuit breaker job, for example, needs to have paneling up before it can be installed in place.

Now, I’ve been doing some nice flat panel oak wainscoting on the walls, and was planing on doing more of it for the area behind the captain’s chair, so it would need to be built to fit around the existing electrical outlet, captain’s chair back, & AC breaker box.

Oh, and around the housing for the electrical panel and  bus wiring that’s just to the port side of the captain’s chair.  Under the plastic there’s lots of empty space and I need to decide how much needs to be taken up with what and how best I’ll get access to the wiring that will still reside in there.

And of course, I have to build the paneling and enclosure around the vents for the defroster (by the port window) and the vents down by the floor for the driver’s heater outlet.  Oh, and the control for the heater core fluid flow.

Unlike modern school buses that have a dial like your car that opens and closes a vent that allows air to flow through or around the heating core (a miniature radiator), our bus has a 1/4 turn valve that allows or restricts (or stops) the hot coolant from flowing into the core, which is mounted just under the big panel of toggles and switches.  Unfortunately, it’s a little thing with short wings, and is really difficult to turn on or off while driving.  As such, I have the body for an old ratchet that I need to weld to the valve  for better control.  And this needs to be built into the paneling in such a way that the hardware of the valve can be attached to the back so it doesn’t move about.

But before I can get to working on this paneling, I need to deal with the floor.  I took apart all the original floor up to the captain’s chair and replaced it with batten strips, insulation, and plywood underlayment. But the floor fore of that, is still the old rubber and marine-grade plywood.

Which is held in place in the front with metal plates. And there’s also a big plate that covers the opening over the transmission for the shift lever to come through, with a nice rubber boot to seal it all up.  And, of course, the plate needs to come up so that the floor can be replaced.  But to take the plate up, the boot needs to come all the way up the lever and off over the shifter knob.

Said shifter knob needs to be removed so the boot can come off the lever, but has (so far) resisted all my attempts to unscrew it.

And then, last but not least, is the captain’s chair itself.  The chair has six bolts holding it down, and the seat belt is held down by two more bolts.  While these really shouldn’t be a problem , there’s a more complex chassis configuration in this area, and it’s rather hard to get to some of the bolts from underneath.  And I’ll actually have to drill up through the new floor in order to put new bolts in the right places to reseat the chair and seat belt hardware.

All to install a DC circuit breaker box …

(That said, I will be getting things done …)

 

 

 

School Bus, school bus RV, Skoolie

Air (Part II)

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Now, to run this from the tank below the floor up through the bus body and out to the horns needed some other bits to work correctly.  First was to put in a pressure regulator, which by adjusting the dial could throttle the pressure to any desired between zero and 200 psi, or however much was in the system.

Pressure Regulator
Pressure Regulator

This was an important consideration that many of the ‘air horn kits’ that I found on-line lacked, as it allows you to quiet your air horns/chimes while you’re in an area with people out and about, rather than a highway with people in vehicles.  While there are people who seem to delight in scaring people with a sudden blast of sound from an air horn at maximum pressure, this is horribly irresponsible and potentially dangerous.

As the regulator had not only a 1/2“ through port, but also two 1/4“ regulated out ports, I decided to use one of these to run to a pressure gauge that I could mount on the control panel.  For this I used mainly a ‘soft’ line of a tough plastic with a 3/8“ interior dimension (but was marketed as a 1/2“ air line), which was not great at turning corners, kinking easily, and causing me to use hard 90 degree elbows to make corners.  This was a great way to check what the pressure is in the auxiliary tank, but had the drawback in that when you dial back the regulator to quiet the horn/chime, you only see the regulated pressure, not the whole tank pressure.  However, as the regulator dial is mounted behind the driver’s seat, this regulated gauge allows you to change the pressure without looking back for too long while driving.  The gauge itself had threads that were just the size of a removed switch cap on the control panel, so the installation was relatively easy, despite having to route the line between all the other lights and switches on the panel.

'Soft' air lines, 1/2" ID in the box and the 3/8" ID around the outside ...
‘Soft’ air lines, 1/2″ ID in the box and the 3/8″ ID around the outside …

The next step after this was to install control valves to actually work the horns.  While some people on-line suggested using simple ball valves for natural gas/LP lines, these don’t automatically close, which poses an additional distraction while driving, as opposed to spring-loaded, normally closed valves.  I got two non-stepped valves, which are amazingly heavy-duty.  Stepped valves have three settings (closed, partly open, and full open), while non-stepped run from closed to full open and all the range in-between depending on how hard you pull on the handle.

Non-stepped control valves
Non-stepped control valves

To counter the possible torque of pulling on one of the handles energetically during a tense moment, I ended up deciding to use hard lines from the regulator to the valves, which made things a bit easier as I needed to split the air line to get to both of the valves.

The lines for the air horns was 1/2” (ID) line to supply the volume of air needed to sound the horn, which can drain the 20 gallon tank fairly quickly, and the hard line was constructed from ‘black’ pipe and brass fittings, and used Teflon tape to seal the threads.

Showing the hard lines from the pressure regulator to the valves mounted on the shelf to the port side of the captain's chair.
Showing the hard lines from the pressure regulator to the valves mounted on the shelf to the port side of the captain’s chair.

These were attached to the shelf that I ended up constructing just above the captain’s chair on the port side, giving easy access to the valve handles, while also not blocking the view.  I had expected to put a couple of hanging lines on the handles (like the old truckers had), but the valves ended up being so low and handy that I decided against it.

Another view of the hard lines and valves without so much backlighting.
Another view of the hard lines and valves without so much backlighting.

While I went with hard lines from the pressure regulator to the valves, most all of the rest of the line was ‘soft’, a thick, durable air brake line of woven fiber and rubber that could be bent into tight angles without crimping or binding.  This allowed for some flexibility of where to run the lines and to easily get the air to a horn along the curved roof.  However, it did pose one problem; that of how to run the soft line through the flooring, which was a 20 gauge steel sheet.

The nice bright dot (of the bright driveway) is where the air line will come up
The nice bright dot (of the bright driveway) is where the air line will come up

I got around this by using a short ‘hard’ pipe through the floor with flared barbs at each end to attach the pipe and the ‘soft’ line.

A brass barb fitting on a black iron pipe to go through the floor
A brass barb fitting on a black iron pipe to go through the floor

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A dark photo of the connection between the tank and the 'through-the-floor' fitting
A dark photo of the connection between the tank and the ‘through-the-floor’ fitting

The first air sounding unit I put in was the air chime.  Nicely finished with brass, I wanted to install it with the pipes pointing up, but due to the construction of the lower ‘bell’ housing not having any drainage hole for rainwater, if I had, the air line down to the valve would fill with water and a winter freeze would have been disastrous.  So, it got mounted sideways, which still isn’t bad.  I ran the holes through one of the plates that I put over the school bus flashers, and piped a hard, brass air line in through the steel.  The mounting for this was simple, as the chime had three threaded holes to secure it, so once the exterior of the holes had been ringed with butyl sealant, it went together easily and securely.

4 Note Air Chime, Brass (From raneystruckparts.com)

That said, a word of advice to people who might be considering doing something like this – be careful with your bolts after getting things in place.  The butyl sticks to everything, including bolt threads, and can make it tough to get things aligned.

But it certainly can be worth it, as shown by the finished chime, in place:

The air chime in place above the driver's eyebrow
The air chime in place above the driver’s eyebrow

To be continued (in Part III) …

design, learning, school bus RV, Skoolie, woodwork

Walls & New Floor (sub-floor) – Part 1

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Some skoolies, once they have their floor prepped (as per my last post), go about putting a uniform flooring over the whole of the open area and then building walls and such atop that.  I chose not to go that route for a couple of reasons.

First, I wanted to make sure that the walls were anchored as securely as possible to the floor.  In order to do that, I wanted to lay out the ‘sole plate’ of the wall right on the metal floor and secure it so it wouldn’t ‘float’ or come loose from the vibrations and bumps of travelling.  If they were just affixed to the sub-floor, the wood might slowly wear or give way and cause a loose wall. Even if I ran longer screws through the subfloor, there was the risk of them bending with stresses and again giving a wobbly wall.

Second, I needed to economize with my subflooring.  The costs involved at that point were more than our finances were comfortable with, so I didn’t want to invest in quite so much plywood and other supplies.  Once I had laid out where certain walls and other fixed elements were going, I could put the good quality subfloor where I needed, and use other stuff in places where it wouldn’t matter or wouldn’t be noticed.

And third, we wanted to tile in the bathroom, and that was going to take a different quality of subfloor to pull off.  And, of course, we’d have to lay out drains and holes for water lines, and it would be easier to do that closer to the actual build/tiling time.

So, the first step was to lay out the walls.  I had done this in blue painter’s tape (unfortuantely no pics), and then cut some nice pine 2×3 (the smaller cousin of the 2×4) to be the ‘sole plates’ for the walls.  These were laid out atop some of the underlayment felt paper that I had leftover from installing a tongue & groove maple floor the summer before.  (And yes, the leftover maple will be making a flooring debut on the bus floor when all the walls are done.)

The reason for the layer of felt paper is in order to take care of any moisture that might get in from under the bus, or even from a leak.  It will help to absorb and dissipate the moisture before it really concentrates in one area and causes lots of damage.

Here are the walls for the bathroom, the bunks and the master bedroom.  The blue tape on the wheelwells shows where walls will be later …

You might note here that there’s some stray 1×2 laying about on the floor.  That’s actually part of the base for the subfloor, because the floor that I was putting in wasn’t simply laying out more clean plywood.  To help keep the floor warmer in the spring and fall, and cooler when traveling over the roads in summer, and quieter overall, I wanted to put in insulation, but didn’t want to take up too much space, since the ceiling was a pretty firm limit of available height.

What I ended up with was a polystyrene insulation that’s sheathed in reflective mylar (or some such thin material), which has an R5 rating while being only 3/4″ thick.  While an R-value of 5 doesn’t sound so great, realize that the 3/4″ plywood I took up only had about a R-value of 0.94, so it’s a huge improvement.  The 1/2″ plywood I was putting down atop it would have another 0.62 of a rating, and the maple tongue & groove should have another 0.90.  When finished the wood floor should have a combined R-value of about 6.5 which is a huge improvement over what it had.  (And since it’s been done, it is MUCH quieter while driving.)

Ooooh … Shiny insulation in big 4 x 8 panels!

The trick with putting down the insulation is to not have it get squashed.  Once it gets crushed, the polystyrene loses a lot of it’s ability to hold in (or keep out) heat, so I wanted to keep it safe.  I also wanted to be able to make the plywood atop the insulation stay as stable as possible to keep the hardwood flooring from moving a lot and developing squeaks.  This is where those 1×2″ battens came in.  By placing these at least every 16″ on center, I could mimic the floor joists in a regular house, and have something more to affix the plywood, and later the maple floor, down to.

And the shiny stuff goes into place.

As you can see from the pictures, the felt goes down first, then the battens were screwed down, then the insulation, then the plywood got screwed down – at least for the floors that will have the maple on them.  In the places where benches, beds, or cabinets will go, I just decided to reuse the old 3/4″ plywood flooring that was in the bus originally.  The plywood was (overall) in great structural shape, so I just used long screws to hold it all down.

Completed subfloor up to the fore bathroom wall and under the kitchen cabinets/appliances.

This involved so piecing of insulation and fun fitting of plywood, but gave a very satisfactory result.  Up until I got to the forward ‘cabin’ area where the seats would be placed and bolted down.  Here I had to pause and work on the seats before I could place the flooring supports to bolt though so I could be sure they’d be really secure, since they’d have the seat belts attached.

So, we’ll finish up the subflooring another day, after the seats got dealt with …

(Continued in Part 2)